GRAPEFOX

Why LTV is a lie in Fashion

Luca Fontani Founder Grapefox Consultancy for Fashion Brands
Written by Luca Fontani
Founder at Grapefox ยท Worked with 100+ fashion brands, from emerging labels to $100M+ companies.
E2 ยท 3 min listen
Why LTV is a Lie in Fashion

Fashion brands are still obsessing over Lifetime Value (LTV).

Here’s why that’s a dangerous mistake.

๐—ง๐—ต๐—ฒ ๐—ฒ๐—ป๐˜๐—ถ๐—ฟ๐—ฒ ๐——๐—ง๐—– ๐—ฒ๐—ฟ๐—ฎ ๐˜„๐—ฎ๐˜€ ๐—ฏ๐˜‚๐—ถ๐—น๐˜ ๐—ผ๐—ป ๐—ฎ ๐—ณ๐—น๐—ฎ๐˜„๐—ฒ๐—ฑ ๐—ฝ๐—ฟ๐—ฒ๐—บ๐—ถ๐˜€๐—ฒ ๐—ณ๐—ฟ๐—ผ๐—บ ๐˜€๐—ผ๐—ณ๐˜๐˜„๐—ฎ๐—ฟ๐—ฒ: ๐˜๐—ต๐—ฎ๐˜ ๐—ฐ๐˜‚๐—ฟ๐—ฟ๐—ฒ๐—ป๐˜ ๐—ฐ๐˜‚๐˜€๐˜๐—ผ๐—บ๐—ฒ๐—ฟ ๐—ฏ๐—ฒ๐—ต๐—ฎ๐˜ƒ๐—ถ๐—ผ๐˜‚๐—ฟ ๐—ฟ๐—ฒ๐—น๐—ถ๐—ฎ๐—ฏ๐—น๐˜† ๐—ฝ๐—ฟ๐—ฒ๐—ฑ๐—ถ๐—ฐ๐˜๐˜€ ๐—ณ๐˜‚๐˜๐˜‚๐—ฟ๐—ฒ ๐˜€๐—ฝ๐—ฒ๐—ป๐—ฑ๐—ถ๐—ป๐—ด.

It worked for Netflix. It worked for Salesforce.

It doesn’t work for fashion.

Why LTV is a lie in fashion

The Flawed Premise: Fashion is Not Software

Here’s the fundamental problem: software has contracts; fashion has transactions.

When a SaaS company calculates LTV, they’re measuring secured future cash flows. When a fashion brand calculates LTV, they’re speculating on future human behavior.

That customer who bought a coat in November? You have no idea if they’ll ever come back. You can’t tell the difference between someone who’s dormant and someone who’s moved on (this is called “unobserved death” in the data).

SaaS companies operate with 80%+ gross margins. Fashion is far more complex; it’s not a piece of software.

Yet brands still use the SaaS benchmark of “3:1 LTV:CAC” based on revenue, not contribution profit. That’s how you burn cash while celebrating “unit economics.”

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Here’s what people miss: LTV in fashion isn’t a metric that predicts the future.

It’s a snapshot of the past.

Every time you launch a new collection, there’s a real chance it will flop.
Seasons aren’t as stable as they used to be; micro-trends rise and fall within a single quarter.

A customer acquired during a viral trend often exhibits low-affinity behavior.

They’re buying the look, not the brand. Once the trend evaporates, they don’t return. But your LTV model still projects three years of purchases that will never materialize.

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Let’s talk about the “COVID distortion”…

During the pandemic, people bought way more online. Brands looked at 2020-2021 data and mistook temporary behavior for permanent shifts. They projected those retention rates forward into perpetuity and over-leveraged themselves.

When the world reopened in 2022, those customers disappeared. The money never came back.

The case studies prove it:

โ†ณ Allbirds (stock down 90%+)
โ†ณ Farfetch (insolvency)
โ†ณ Stitch Fix (active clients down 20% YoY)
โ†ณ Rent the Runway (asset depreciation killed the subscription model).

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Why this matters now:

With interest rates at 5%, future cash flows must be heavily discounted. A customer who generates profit in Year 3 is worth far less today than in 2020.
Velocity beats volume.

The metrics that actually matter:

โ†ณ Contribution Margin: Did you make money on this order?

โ†ณ Payback Period: How fast does this customer return their CAC? (target: under 60 days; ideally the same day)

โ†ณ Cash Conversion Cycle: Are you financing growth with debt or cash?

Fashion is not software. It’s a trading business.

Stop building forecasts on data that’s already expired.

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